Tuesday June 28th 2011

1000h Just getting up and looks like the boys have the dingy in the water.Paul has already gone ashore for a walk. He has been to the edge of town and says it will be a 45 min. walk.
After breakfast we are all going to explore.
1100h Two trip in the dingy rowing to shore.We are very close so we don’t put the motor on.We have a small steep hill to scale along a narrow dirt and rocky path through some light bush.Out of breath at the top the girls stop to check out the view and see a young boy swimming out to our boat. He doesn’t get a on the swim platform without the ladder down.We carry on into town. The paved road with pines trees on both sides is shady so it’s a nice walk. Like being in the woods. When we get around the other side of the island we start to see some of the old wooden houses that are often mentioned as dwindling and deteriorating in the city of Istanbul.They are lovely. The ones that haven’t been renovated with new wood siding look like the wood from railroad ties dark and oily the new ones are white or stained a cedar color. Some are 3 or 4 stories with most built on the hills along the road with no front yards. The town is small with ferries at the port constantly coming and going with long stay tourists and day trippers.
I ran into a little boy from Toronto. He came up to us and said Welcome to turkey, we had a little chat along the way. He comes every year for 2 months with his family.They rent the same house each year.
We didn’t come across a beach and the one at the boat is full of jelly fish and as deep as a lounge chair. There is a navy academy on the island.
We had a lovely fish lunch and headed through town with a map so we could find the road to the boat along the other side of the island.
The boys left ahead of us and got lost so we got there first. Cracked open a beer on the beach before heading to the boat.
1900h Paul made his first meal on the boat. Drinking wine while cooking and chatting he was a bit late . We didn’t eat till 2000h.

Old wooden Turkish home

Lovers!

Relaxed after dinner and got to bed early. We are leaving at 0600h to get the boat to Pendick Marina for 0800h

Monday June 27th 2011

0900h we leave the cove to head to a lunch stop 8 miles away around the other side of Pasalimani Island.
1100h we arrive at the small cove, nothing here just a couple of houses in the hills. The plan is to leave here at 1230h and head to another small island around the corner about 8 miles. I questioned Malcolm on why we would go a short distance just to dine and leave at 2000h for our 67mile night sail. I always an answer with this look on his face like I should know his choice makes so much sense. I head into my cabin to do some reading and 5 minutes later after he gets on his laptop, I hear him telling everyone he has changed his plan and we are going to start the long sail in one hour. He does this a lot. Thinks about what his plan is and realized it may not make so much sense.
1345h we depart and head for Heybeliada ,one of 3 small islands in the Princess Island group just a few miles from Istanbul.
1500-1900h Malcolm and Jenny take the watch. I chose to relax in my cabin till our watch at 1800h
1800h-2100h It’s still daylight so Alison and I have an easy watch. No ships in sight so nothing to worry about.We are now in the Sea of Maramara.
0300h Not sure if I got a good sleep but I can always go back to bed when we arrive. Malcolm and Jenny had a bit of a time watching for boats some fishing boats didn’t come up on radar and they saw a few tankers cross there path.Malcolm made it very clear that we must watch for ships because we are right in the middle of the shipping lane and the entrance to the Bosphorus is coming up.15 miles away,He’s edgy.Sometimes I think he has no confidence in his crew.We didn’t see anything that would be an issue.One ship crossed behind us a mile away.
0530h We are now 1 mile from our destination and we need to wake Malcolm so he can take the boat into the anchorage in the cove.
0600h We have arrived. Mark and Paul get up and help drop the anchor and now it’s off to bed for a few hours.

Sunday June 26th 2011

0700hWe arrived in Balikli earlier than expected. Mark and Paul had a good watch reaching a speed of over 6 knots.
1000h I got up!!! Didn’t even notice the boat had stopped moving and rolling.I guess the pill helped.
After breakfast we dropped the dingy.The anchorage was on the edge of a very small hamlet with a few homes scattered up on the hills and along the water edge where the short stone walls at the edge of the properties almost dipped into the water.
1300h Galley duty for me for the last time. even though it was only once a week it seemed like a chore cooking lunch and dinner for 7 and cleaning up the mess. I appreciate what my mother did to keep 2 young children fed and having to work all day. Thanks Mom.After lunch Paul,Jenny,Alison and I took the dingy to shore.Three of us just wanted to have that cold beer and a smoke that we planned on back in Canakkale.Up until yesterday I was the only smoker and it didn’t bother me to go without for 3 or 4 days.Not sure how Paul and Jenny will do.
We split up in town Jenny and I heading up the steep road to check out the view. Lots of hills and water, the island is 3 x4 miles. Very few people live here but funny there is a huge ferry that comes in every 2 or 3 hours, a tractor got on and a truck got off.
We headed back down and went to the only restaurant for a beer. Not sure if anyone even drank here! We got our beer for 3.50 each. When Paul went up to get one he was charged 4.50 by a different guy.Kids jumping off the small ferry dock and swimming. Lots of jelly fish here,you can see them floating around rhizostoma pulmo1500hWhen Paul and Jenny went to grab another beer they were told it’s all gone till 1700h when I assumed a delivery would be made.
1530h The beer arrived early. Looked like about 48 beers were dropped off.I guess there aren’t to many drinkers here !!!
1630h we row back to the boat, Paul seems a bit wobbly with his rowing. I heard from Alison later that Paul was drinking wine after breakfast !1830h Dinner is almost ready and Paul is into the previously opened bottle of red wine by the time dinner had started ,I made breaded chicken strips, purple cabbage the way my mom made it and rice. Paul was opening his second bottle. Dinner over and sitting around, Jenny made a comment to paul about uncorking the bottle and not letting it breath a bit before he gulped down a glass. He laughed and said it tasted fine and proceeded to tell us how his cousin bought him a wine preserving thingy that keeps the wine fresh, laughing that he never had to put wine away ,he always finished the bottle and when he opened a bottle of whiskey with his buddies , he threw away the cap. I think the trip could get interesting for the rest of the crew, Paul is scheduled to stay for 90 days AND Malcolm had already mentioned to Alison that she would be bunking with him later on in the trip. !!!! Without asking her first !!! I didn’t think it was right and told her she should speak to him about it.2000h Paul is now very tipsy. Jenny and I want to go for our last puff on shore before putting the dingy away but we needed to go without Paul. We didn’t feel safe having him in the dingy so unstable on his feet.While he was in the head (bathroom) we yelled down to see if anyone wanted to go. We didn’t get an answer so we jumped in the boat,as we did paul came up so we just said we are going to the washroom and he said “oh”.
Had a tea and a smoke in the village café and got back to the boat by 2200h. Paul was already snoring.

Paul just split with his wife in September and mentioned once or twice that she got it all. Heavy drinker maybe !??

Saturday June 25th 2011

0500h We set out this morning for Canakkale ( means Pottery Castle.) 26 miles up the Dardenelles.These are shipping lanes so Malcolm is concerned about dodging large ships. Not sure why the Dandenelles are 3 miles wide !There is a 3 knot current against us and the winds are still blowing.
With 5 hours to travel we each take a one hour watch.Easy,very few ships and we stayed to one side so we were well out of the way of any traffic but there was none.
1030h Malcolm took over as we got closer to the marina. a couple of ferries going across our path, he’s still uneasy letting anyone sail when there is anything at all around. There’s more traffic in Toronto Harbor and less room to maneuver !Canakkale is bustling with people, very busy,reminded me of Guadalajara.
Gelibolu (gallipoli)peninsula is across the Dandanelles and can be reached by ferry. Most of the war memorials or there. We had planned to be here for 3 days but due to the wind while in Bozcaada we are behind schedule.The rest of the crew will stop here on the way back for 3 days and explore then.
I didn’t bother taking my camera into town other than the replica Trojan horse there is nothing to shoot. The other Trojan house , used in the movie is 35km away in Troy.I hear from many there isn’t much to see there. It is written: there is no proof that the Trojan War took place,Homer’s epic could be based on several wars fought rather than a 10 year war. Troy is in layers the oldest Troy I being 3600 BC, Troy IX 300 BC to 300 AD.They suggest you show up with no expectations and use your imagination !!The battle fields don’t interest me so I wasn’t disappointed that I would miss them.
1200h I walked Altan over to the bus station and we said our good byes. He hopes to meet with us in Istanbul for the day. I walked over to get my phone SIM card loaded but with the girls lacking in english I was unable to get a connection. hoping to find a dealer in Istanbul.
Reed and Nadeane packed up and went to a museum and then heading off to Germany. Our new crew is Jenny from Ireland and Paul from Alaska ( born in Texas with a heavy drawl )Jenny,Mark and I picked up some supplies and when we arrived back we planned to have a cold beer on the promenade. Malcolm , worried about getting up the Dard. Had been scoping out the situations and suggests we leave now. Anyone oppose?he said, Well we were just going to have a cold beer ,I said. Besides going for a cold beer he said. 1430h we drop the lines and head out . Next stop Balikli on Pasalimani island 65 miles up the Dardenelles into the Sea of Marmara.
Malcolm plans to arrive by 1000h the next morning.
1500h-2100h Malcolm and Jenny take the first watch at 2100 so until then we are all taking turns. I decided to have a nap from 1600h-1800h so that I would be rested for the 1200h-0300h watch with Alison.
1900h Dinner is on the hoof as Malcolm says. Alison made a nice salmon casserole with noodles, carrots and brocolli making dinner easy to eat from a bowl in the rolling seas.
2030h Alison and I went to our cabin and watched a movie and then rested during the bumpy ride up the Dardenelles to Pasalimani island.
Malcolm and Jenny had some rough seas , squalls , rain and heavy winds so you can imagin what resting was like. We put up the divider between us so we wouldn’t roll over onto each other.
1200-0300 Our watch was uneventful. A bit of rain for 20 min.I nestled up near the winches on the seat cushions and behind the bimini windows.At one point I think I went into a daze. thinking about my dad hard to imagine I would not see him again. Nothing came up on radar which was set for a 1.5 mile radius. We did spot a cruise ship about 4 kms away, hard to miss all the lights on the 6 level liner. (Dawn Princess)Winds were 10 knots and the current was gone. By the end of our watch we had reached 5.2knots over ground. We should arrive earlier then expected.
0300 I popped a ¼ sleeping pill to help me get a better sleep.Mark and Paul were now on watch.
Hope you are all well and the weather is getting better.

Friday June 24 2011

The plan today is to go to the beach for the whole day. Altan had decided to join me.
1100h Nadeane has asked if I had any requests for dinner since it is my birthday. There is a fishermans wharf here so why not have fish !
Altan, Nadeane and I head over to check out the fresh fish available today.
15 tl per pound of the local fish, they clean, scale and wrap them up for us,Nadeane takes them back to the boat. She’s on galley duty today.
1200h Altan and I walk over to catch the bus to the beach. We have packed a small lunch and a tall beer each. It’s too hot to take more, they will be warm in an hour.
1230h it’s a breezy day but once we walk down 30 steps to the beach it’s warmer with very little breeze.We settle half way down the beach with a parasol and chaise lounges. The young guys in charge of chairs come over with there binder and tickets in hand. 12tl for the day. We cracked open the beer and shared some nuts and nacho chips.
After an hour it starts to get very toasty so we head for the water. Lots of smooth stones going in but still an eeh and an ahh to get to the sand 10 feet away. As I watch others going in it’s funny to see them all doing the same dance unless they were smart enough to bring there water shoes. The water is about 24 degrees. Once I was in up to my waist it felt like my ankles were wrapped in ice packs.I got used to the throb I dipped to my shoulders. Altan was braver and took a dive and swam to the diving platform 100 ft out, I yelled out “It‘s like swimming in Norway !!.5 min. and I was refreshed and ready for lunch. We broke some fresh bread, threw on some tomatoes and cheese and salted a cucumber.
1400h We through on some sunblock adjusted the chairs to get in the shade and tried to get a nap in. After 20 min. it was just too hot to get comfortable. Back in the frigid waters !Altan went up to the restaurant for another beer. He came back with 2 in a brown paper bag. I guess they don’t usually have “take out” beer here. It’s ok as a tourist but the locals don’t drink in public areas. Best to keep in covered. We had a long chat about many things I found out Altan’s birthday is Sept 17^th. I’m 6 months older. He’s a Virgo which explains his personality and the fact that we get along well. I have many Virgo friends.He reminds me of my dear sailing buddy J.B. .1700h We decide to head up to the restaurant where there is a fresh water shower next to it. While sitting with our drinks a convoy of cars , police and a lead car with someone very important inside. They had a EU flag flying on the main car.A bunch of men in suits got out and walked over to the viewing platform above the beach. 10 min.later they were back in the cars. I didn’t take out my camera for fear of being nabbed by the military or secret service guys.I really don’t think it would have been a problem, but Altan thought it best not to.As they drove buy and I stood watching the “ VIP” looked at me and waves. We found out later it was some big guy from New Zealand.
1900h Back at the boat our fish dinner is just about ready. Delicious. After dinner Nadeane pulled out a strawberry shortcake and everyone sang. I’m sure she slaved over in the afternoon. She went out earlier in the day to buy some plain cake from the bakery but they would sell her one. She managed to find a flan at the market and then her and Reed did charades for the check out girl to get some candles. I guess it was quite drawn-out ,singing happy birthday, pretending to blow out candles and so on. It was the best strawberry cake.
2100h After dinner we all went over to the winery.A few blocks into town.There was a very tiny stage with a singer and they were serving wine out side of the store. The small alley way really a one car cobblestone street was filled with people. We watched a bit and Altan assured us that wine would be free later, he was right.
2200h they pulled out the rest of the bottles that were opened for the party and started serving in plastic cups. earlier is was 20 tl for a glass wine glass that could be refilled.It was a long day for me so I decided to go back to the boat. Altan and Reed stayed till midnight. the VIP from New Zealand showed up and had a drink and shook some hands.I guess they decided to buy a bottle of wine and drank it there. When they got back to the boat they were primed.We are leaving in the morning at 5 and my quess is they will have swollen heads.

Birthday on the beach !

Heading out for the wine festival

Altan making my lunch on the beach

Ashtrays on the beach

It was a wonderful day at the beach on my special day. Altan leaves tomorrow. I will miss him.

Thursday June 23rd 2011

Today was a day of just hanging out and exploring more of the town, eating drinking , reading etc,
The winds are still 20 knots with lots of white caps.The plan is the same,stay till Saturday.
The town is really quite small so once you walk around for an hour you pretty much see everything. I changed some money and checked out a few shops that were not open before.
Some more boats came in and now we are full , about 20. There’s a big motor yacht beside us 68 ft. brand new. One had left the marina and come back in for something.When he left the swell was so bad it rammed another boats gang plank. I happened to see him leave but at the time didn’t know the story , and video taped him leaving.I guess he left without paying he dock fee.It was a big new boat and the guys were doing a delivery to the new owner. Taking advantage of the nice ride I guess.
Had a beer in town with Altan, Mark and Alisan. The wine fest is starting so lots of people are coming in by ferry. The town is busier so it’s nice to see people sitting around at the cafes and restaurants.

1900h Malcolm had met Peter on the Blue Star (40ft)a few boats over. He is from England,( semi-retired) traveling with one friend,Anthony. He will be solo for a week after Anthony leaves him in Canakkale. I thinking I may catch up with him one day for a sail around Greece. They came over to our boat for a few drinks and some sailing stories. Peter left his business card with me. He’s had his share of adventures. He took his first sailing course in 2004 ,bought a 38’ in 2005 and sailed to Greece from England. He’s been traveling the area ever since, going back to England during the winter months.

Wednesday June 22nd 2011

Beach

Monastary on the hill

Fishermans marina in Bozcaada

Transportation

Beach

Mosque ready

0830h All rested from our overnight journey ,everyone is up a bit earlier today. We plan to take the dolmus bus to the beach.
1000h The dolmus bus ride is 15 min. As we are driving through the country side we see an open market in an open lot off the road. Alison and I plan to get out on the way back and check it out. 5 min walk back to town.The vineyards are not easy to see and very small , maybe 5 acres each. The vines or very stubby and lower to the ground than most you would see in France.
The land is rolling and dotted with small homes.Similar to our rural areas at home.
Arriving at the beach we see 3 restaurants on the road. The beach is down a small hill. Quite long and wide ,it’s very clear water again and the smooth stones make it a bit easier to walk in.Some beaches were very course stone with urchens. Nadeane has read that there is a monastery up the steep winding road. We head up while Reed and Altan swim.
1100h Not much of a monastery, the community may consist of 4-6 people. There only 4 building and the residence may be 3 very small rooms.Not so impressive but fun to check out.
1215h Alison and I hop on the bus to head back and check out the market while Altan ,Reed and Nadeane stay for a beer at the beach.
The market is full of the usual vendors selling tea towels, table clothes, cheese, fruit,vegetables, nuts and clothing. We pick up some peaches and cherries and head back to the boat, stopping for a tub of ice cream at the supermarket. Its warm out so we need to be fast or we will melt the goodies.0130h Just in time for lunch the others have already started eating. The usual cold lunch, leftovers , cheese, tomatoes, olives and fresh bread we pick up everyday we are ashore. (.50-.1.00tl a loaf)
May not have mentioned, the plan is to stay here till Saturday due to the high winds and gusting. ( 20-30 knots) We couldn’t have picked a better spot. Beach , lovely village and plenty of wine and beer.
1900h Dinner. Mark made some tasty,big meatballs with rice.

2000h It’s movie night on the big screen 20” flat. Malcolm was talking about this movie the other night so we decided we would all watch since we are docked with power for a few days.First time TV has been turned on since we started sailing.Move- Bad Santa with Billy Bob Thorton.Lots of swearing. Some funny parts depends on the humor you like.
The island has banned plastic bags which is nice to see, other areas find there bags in the sea. News paper hats are folded to put fruits in and when shopping you really need to bring a bag.
Also noted , not just here , there is a smoking ban but with the restaurants being outside and open you can smoke , there are always plenty of ashtrays around ,even on the beach. You don’t see a lot of butts on the ground. Shop keepers have small tables and chairs outside where they sit and have a smoke break and often drinking tea in a small tulip shaped glass.
1600h Alton left his towel at the beach so the driver at our end was kind enough to radio to the other driver and he got it and at 1700 we should go to the dolmus stop and get it.In the mean time we waited at the jewelry shop and I bought some things while Altan chatted up the vendor in Turkish. Got a good deal and a gift. Lovely head scarf with a crocheted trim.Had a tea and picked up the towel.

Tuesday June 21 2011

0900h we can see our destination.Bozcaada ! 39 50’.1N 26 04’.6E It’s an island. Bozcaada is the ancient Tenedos, home of Apollo the Mouse God, and he Greek base for the attack on Troy.In Byzantine times, during he reign of Justinians,huge granaries were built so that ships carrying grain to Constantinople could be unloaded here and the grain ferried up the Dardanelles .Nothing remains of the graineries but the Genoiese castle built in the last days of western trade is in excellent repair. It is right on the docks, great view.
1000h Now tied up ,I head out with Alison to check out the town. Lovely little fishing boats docked close to the ferry dock just down from us. Again , more restaurants then people. The craft booths are mostly set up.
Everything we need is here but the shopping is limited for food. Everyone must be going to the main land. The island had 6 vitners,yet a very small island. None of the wine is exported. We find a English speaking gentleman at a restaurant who is happy to take us on a wine tasting and mentions if we are interested he can lead us to the bike rental if we are interested. Everyone is always helpful that way. The town is not very big,easy to walk everywhere. cobblestone streets and vine covered homes.One fifth muslim 2, medieval mosques, A former Greek quarter, nowadays just twenty elderly Orthodox inhabitants remain residents.
The beach is a dolmus ride away or 1 ½ hour walk on the other side of the island.
1500h After lunch at take a walk up to meet up with our tour guide. The winery is in town so we just walk. Red tile floor like at work , stainless steel vats and the storage tanks made of concrete. After the wine tasting we each bought a bottle to try out at dinner.
I’m on galley duty , we are having beef stir fry with a bottle of Shiraz.
2030h Clean up after dinner and we are all tired from the rough night of sailing and lack of restful sleep. I managed to watch 30 min. of a movie and passed out. The rest went down by 2200h.

Mosque Mineret in background, top right,military housing



Older homes







 

Older turkish home.hotel

 I like this village, another favorite if the beach is good. The plan is to be here for one or 2 nights. Docking costs where 75 euros but Altan talked them into getting us a reduce rate of 50 e with power and water. Some of the other spots where as much as 80e.

Monday June 20th 2011

0900h This morning we are heading across the bay to Akcay ,5 miles ,for lunch and to get our paper work done to keep the coast guard happy.
It is nice and warm this morning so Altan and sit up at the front of the boat to catch some rays and chat. I had mentioned to him that I don’t see many homeless people on the street. He explained that they have places for them unlike at home but they also try to keep the younger generation at home which obviously seems to be working , I have only seen one man looking like he was living on the street.
1030h We arrive and put out the dingy to get into shore. I decide to go with Altan and Malcolm to get caught up on my blog and to pick up a few items from the market.
The town is busy, with shops along the harbor selling the usual tourist (Turkish)stuff, beach toys and souvenirs.I took a walk to find a post office ,ended up asking for directions showing my postcard. Luckily the office was down the street near the policia station so directions where easy to interpret with hand gestures and me already knowing where the station was.Turkish is a difficult language.I found spanish much easier ,so i am stuck at thank you and hello.!
The internet connection was good, Nice large open air café on the sea,with white pleather banquet seating and wingback chairs in white cloth. (sorry no photos).Cappuccino coffee 5 tl.
Malcolm gave me a 2 way radio so I could call the boat for my ride back but when I got to the dock I must have changed channels in my bag so I couldn’t contact them.( lots of chatter on radio, checked all channels.) Now I’m waving on the dock hoping someone reading in the cockpit will see me. 1240h
1310h Finally someone saw me and Altan jumped in the dingy. Funny, half way I see the dingy stopped moving and Altan is playing with the motor. I thought he might be out of gas, as it turned out (after he rowed in) he didn’t have the switch to the gasoline half way over. Had him go through the usual steps to figure it out the problem pinched line, vent open etc and he couldn’t get the motor back down. tilt towards you while pulling up on lock rather than against the lock, and back we go.
1330h is served. I was soo hot sitting on the dock after lunch I had a 10 minute warning before the dingy went up to take a swim. This time it was a straight dive in no yellow floaty aahhh that was refreshing !!
1430h We now plan to find a night time anchorage. 10 miles away is Kucukkuyu,we are too big to get into the marina so we hang out off shore.Its very open and a bit windy so we must make a plan for the next day. We are not close to any sheltered coves and heading north to Istanbul through the Dardanelles ,they are far and few between.we are about 100 miles from the Dardanelles, The winds will be 25 knots plus and the current is about 4 knots both against us.
1900h Alison made curry beef with rice and choclolate pudding for dessert.
Over dinner it was discussed and decided that we would do a night sail to Bozcaada. It’s 55 miles and we won’t have a good anchorage along the way.
Malcolm has set up the schedule for the night in 3 hour shifts. Alison and I will start at 2100h.the easiest shift ,not worries, still in the bay and everyone is still awake. Mark and Altan at 2400h,Nadeane and Reed at 0300h and then at 0600h Malcolm will take over for the ride into the harbor.
Our sail was uneventful ,Mark and Altan got around the point out into the open sea and came across some small fishing boats ,some with no lights but they saw us coming and pulled out the big spot light so they could be seen.
0300h Nadeane and Reed are up and now I am awake due to the rolling seas. I guess they had a rough time, We reduce our speed over ground from 5 knots to 2 knots with wind and sea conditions. At some point I hear the engine rev. higher and I knew Malcolm had gotten up. He wasn’t sleeping well either and knew he needed to get up to check out the situation. We are not authorized to increase rpm. By this time I guess it was 1730h.I knew I would be having a nap today ! Altan said he strapped himself in for fear of rolling off the top shelf. (bunk)

June 19th 2011

 

Old building with a bar and next door to the art gallery we went into

Fun little changing room on beach.

Sunday June 19th 2011





0815h we are starting out early this morning.Malcolm wants to leave by 0900h so I had to drag myself out of bed today. I was up late watching a couple of movies. Edge of darkness ( mel gibson),Change of plans.(reese witherspoon). We are heading out of the achipelagos (Patricia Limani) to Burhaniye where we hope to get our water tanks filled and get some paper work done with the Port Authorities. The marina is awaiting privitization so from the pilot book it is noted that at the time it was not completed (2009)
How it works in Greece( not sure if this is done the same way in Turkey)… there are government grant to build the walls and docks which is done by the municipality then they wait for a private company to take over and build the out buildings run plumbing and wiring.Until it is bought there are no fees to dock there but also no facilities. If after 7 years no one buys into the marina it is taken over by the municipality.(this is Malcolms understanding)0910h I have taken the helm for the first hour. We have 10 knots of wind so we are putting up the Genoa and main.It’s nice to have the motor off for a change. We are going 4.2 knots over the ground which is what we would be doing if the motor was on.
1130hThe marina is ok .We have docked near fishing boats.We set up the boat plank and head out to do some fresh food shopping in town. Then off to find internet. Seems to be the big task every time we stop. The connection was very slow. I managed to get the past 4 days on my blog.
It was very hot today, Alison found a temp. outside a shop reading 34 !
1430 We head back to the boat and find a spot to swim. There is a large break wall behind us with a swimming area so we go there. The water isn’t very clear and lots of grass floating around with a grassy bottom. I cool off and get out. Looks like there is a carnival coming to town .Lots of huge rigs and trucks with animals and rides.
1900 Altan is cooking dinner tonight . We have found some fresh fish.
1940 We are sitting around in the cock pit after dinner.The trucks are pulling over to the lot behind us and creating a circle of trucks with a big space in the middle. Partly their camp and they are also hammering in spike for a small tent I guess. Circus Orient and the outside of a truck.2000h Altan,Mark and I head out for a beer. We don’t seem to spend much time drinking in town rather on the boat so it’s time to take a tour. We arrive at an old building that has been converted into a art gallery for a showing of paintings done by the seniors in the area who paint all winter for a hobby.
Quite impressive for amateurs.
We spent 30 minutes there and then head over to the café/bar close to the boat.Beer here is usually a large one so we only had one. 6tl ( 4.50)
2200h Time for bed !

Some extra pics i may not have posted

Can't call home :-(

Sheep hurding



Trip into town on a very hot day. Teresa ,Tim,Alison,Mark



Saturday June 18th 2011

1000h Just the usual lunch stop and overnight anchorage today. We are still in the archipelagos.Today we will travel approx. 18 miles. We have one large island with small ones all around. We often are on the other side of the island from the night before and can see the same landmarks from behind. We are not really covering a large land area but a lot of miles by water. If you get what I mean? not sure if that made sense.The large bay has a causway on one side so you need to go all the way around. You could walk the distance in a shorter time. 1230h Our lunch stop is Poroselene just a quiet little bay. I got in the water with my yellow air mattress. Water is clear but nothing to see just grass and sandy bottom.Have yet to see any coral. No fish, just the odd sea urchin.Altan has attempted to do some fishing and trawling with no luck.
1430h We are off to Patricia Limani around the corner.For a bit of excitement while I was on the helm I saw a speed boat heading towards us not veering off coarse from us which I thought would be rude causing a wake.As they got closer and I was looking through the binoculars I realized it was the police. They gestured for me to idle.They pulled along side and asked Malcolm for our papers. When we were in Cesme the broker didn’t complete the papers correctly and also Malcolm was trying to hold off buying another transit log ($100)which he would need to get eventually anyway (?)They suggested that when we get to Burhaniye we see the harbor master and get it straightened out. With Altan aboard and able to speak Turkish I think they were being friendlier. One of the policemen did speak English.10 min and we were on our way again.Nadeane is on galley duty today.Nadeane and Reed from Vancouver are borderline tree huggers. When they arrived she had mentioned to Malcolm that she is on a wheat free diet. Oh boy ! That didn’t go over well, so he explained to her that the crew will NOT cook any differently to adjust to her diet. She should have mentioned it in her emails. 200g of meat for dinner meals ! None of this veggie rice stuff. For dinner Nadeane made eggplant with ground beef on top. She was testing the waters only putting 300g total meat in the dish. Malcolm liked it and it filled his belly so he let it go. I think he got tired of reacting to some of her actions and remarks. Earlier at lunch she said she didn’t want him to put plastic in the microwave,glass only and he made it clear that they were microwave dishes.In turn they were both using plastic water cups to make there HOT tea in.(inconsistent) At dinner Nadeane she pulled out the big knife to cut the eggplant in his new Teflon grill pan. !!!oh boy!Malcolm says he’s stressed !We got a plastic utensil and I dished out his eggplant for him. Some of us were laughing inside. !!
Nadeane and Reed depart on the 25^th so they have galley days one more time!
2030h Some after dinner conversation and then we all did our own thing.

Full moon June 18th Patruica Limani

I settled into my cabin and watched a couple of movies.

Friday June 17th 2011

0800h It was a bit of a rocky night and at one point I woke up and could hear the shit hawks screeching for some reason. Busy in the galley everyone hanging out and chatting. No room to get in to get my coffee !!!
0900h we head over to another “lake” this one in the middle of the Ayvalik Archipelagos via the Dalyan Bogazi (Channel).39 19’25N 26 37’.9E
1000h We anchor and pull down the dingy to head into town to check out the area. We have put the small motor on since it’s a bit farther to go and bit wavy.
Alison and I take off exploring the back streets. Right on the harbor is an old abandoned building so we checked it out. Found a man with his cart of stuff in behind he zoomed of down the hill in his cart with 2 different size wheels !It’s sad to see these old buildings falling apart and left to die.
Lots of interesting buildings along the way.We are walking down the back streets 2 over from the promenade, we see the places people live, some poor, shops and interesting alley ways. Back on the promenade it’s time to find some WIFI.I show a guy my computer ,,, wifi? He doesn’t have. Next restaurant/café the waiter is speaking English ! He has WIFI and they are right next door to the post office. Jackpot ! Mail postcards and internet, it’s a great day ! 1230h time to head back to the boat, we run into Altan ,he’s waiting to take us back to the dingy. Lunch is at 1300h and it’s Reeds turn.
After lunch we need to go into town again to pick up supplies. There will be 4 days ahead that we may not have much of a choice in the meat department.
1400h We didn’t see any big markets in Alibay so we decide to head over to Ayvalik across the harbor. Back in the dingy Mark, Altan and I go to the big supermarket that we could see with the binoculars , get in and get out in 20 so we can get over to our overnight anchorage at the other end of the “lake”.
1700h we are now anchored in Kumru Buku.(bay) Water temp. 30 ! I was hot sitting on the dock and would have jumped in but now that we are on the boat and there is a breeze, I’m going to pass on the swim.
1900h Dinner was a great Quiche and some rice with cooked green beans and tomatoes. For dessert we had Halva on orange slice. (ground sesame and honey type of candy) (I’ve been eating Halva since I was very young, can be bought at home).
2115h Full and lazy I read a bit in the cock pit and then head down to the dinette to finish my blog.

Kumru Koyu(Cove) night achorage.

Ayvalik for some provisions

One of many restaurants on the harbor in Alibay

Back street shopping in Alibay

Buildings along the harbor in Ayvalik. Alibay and Ayvalik a few miles from each other in the Archibelagos.

We traveled only 10 miles today zig zagging around this group of islands.Tomorrow we head over to another island within the archipelagos Patricia Limani.

Thursday June 16th 2011

0900h Bedemli Limani “the lake” everyone is done breakfast and gets the last swim in before we lift the platform.We head over to the other side of the lake and down a bit to see if we can locate the hot springs they refer to in the guide book with a P.S. recent visitors here picked up a fungal infection from the baths !!I’m not going in. ha.
I wanted to walk over to the uninhabited building. Looks like it was a nice hotel. We got on shore in the dingy. Alison, Altan and I head toward the hotel through the olive groves. We come up to a farmers home asking Altan to find out the story on the hotel. He’s telling us we don’t need to go any further , there’s nothing there. He’s not an explorer obviously.The owner died and the place is closed . It was never finished.Altan didn’t ask too many questions , wish I new Turkish. After reading all these detective books Alison and I felt like we were on a mission to find out. So we get up to the place through the field over the bridge ( handyman special) down the road and up the stairs. Altan doesn’t come up . He hangs out at the dock. Later coming up and telling us we shouldn’t be picking the onions that someone has planted. There was so many we could have taken them to market !! We did pick a few! There were a couple of cots and some old sofas in one of the rooms so it looked like someone was taking care of the place. Some rooms had cement board piles and ceramic tile. If this place were finished I’m sure it would make a great hideout for the Hollywood stars( at a price) There’s not much around and quiet. I got some video of the findings.
We head back to the dingy stopping at a couple of pools to check out the temp. of the spring water. One of the 4 was hot so Reed, Nadeane and Altan put there feet in, Alison layed down right up to her neck. sterilize !!!

"The Lake" in Bademli Limani

1130h Back to the boat and heading for our overnight stop I Ciplak Ad. At the Ayvalik Archipelago.

Wednesday June 15th 2011

0900h We were given the option to stay here last night because we are a day ahead of schedule and the cost here was descent. (50tl a night with water and power) We chose to stay but that only gives us till 1500h today. Malcolm gave us a short list of chores we weren’t expecting so that shortens up the day and I’m on galley duty so the beach is not going to happen. We got the vacuuming done , washed down the cock pit and filled the water tanks ( we were down to ½ of the last 1 of 4). I prepped the tomatoes , cheese and lettuce to get ahead.
1200h I still have time to get to the post office and get my stamps and I grabbed a bottle of wine too. Some last minute email checks at the café, a smoke and tea and it’s back to make lunch.
1430 we head out while I do galley clean up.Plan is to go back to “ the lake”. Malcolm wants to check out the hot springs and anchor for the night.He would rather stay in a secluded spot then stay near the cities. I prefer the cities. It’s nice to see how the people are living and experience the water front( all of 20,000 people here)
01600h we arrive at the lake actually Bedemli Limani
Altan video taped me going in the water which has only happened 2 other times. ( on my yellow air mattress)Finished up the “ the girl with the dragon tattoo” It was ok. I would give it a 7. Look forward to the next 2 books.
Now I’m starting on ‘hell on the high seas’ true stories of sailing survival against the odds. !!!
1900h dinner served, chicken stew with carrots and green beans on egg noodles. It was all eaten. I think I have 2 more dinners to do before I go !I was joking about going below to clean up and Malcolm started to call me “cindi” (rella)
2100h after I finish dinner dishes I went up to the cock pit. “hey ‘cindi’ they shouted. They had the side panels of the bimini down as it was spitting and a bit windy.I thought the shore behind us looked a bit close and we were not moving at all. Malcolm got the engine started and we all went up to the bow. Yes , we some how swung around to a high spot or the anchor was dragging a bit. Back to safety and swinging freely again , we had a laugh.

Tuesday June 14th 2011

0800h Depart from Candarli to go to Dikili. Malen and Emelie are getting off. The trip is about 4 hours (19 miles)so we won’t be stopping for lunch but the girls wanted to get some fun shots jumping off the boat so Malcolm made a swim stop for one hour.
0930h we sail into an area called Bademli Limani also referred to as “the lake” in the port guide. This ‘lake’ has a few large building around it. Some look deserted but are very impressive building for the area. High end hotel that look like they are shut down. WE decided to come back to this spot after we drop the girls off and pick up our new crew Reed and Nadeane from Vancouver.
1200h we arrive in Dikili.39 04’.15N 26 53’.12E There is no fancy marina with showers here but a small fishemans harbor.Before lunch I decided to explore the few blocks behind the harbor.
We get the girls on there way after lunch and set out to see where the laundry is. Tuesdays there is a large market. It had to be a mile of booths up and down the streets selling clothes ,shoes, food, spices, hardware, live chicks, ducks and rabbit. We also walked along the water to check out which restaurants had WIFI and had a Turkish coffee. And of course always looking for money exchange and post office. It’s been 2 weeks and I either too late in the day, holiday or just can’t find a post office. I’ve been carrying around some postcards to send home!!!! Nadeane and Reed arrived at the boat while we where out exploring.
1900h dinner was tortellini with sauce and watermelon for dessert.
After dinner Alison and I went over the the café for a tea and some internet time. The are so nice here, we could have sat and worked on our computer without buying anything. The don’t come rushing over to the table insisting.
We got back to the boat at 2330.Last ones in you always need to make sure the gang plank is up. Notice the buys next door playing cards and drinking on the trawler. THEN they started singing. Thank gosh it was only one song but the were loud for a time.
Some simple pleasure you take for granted at home…. Today we got clean sheets, found an open post office and bought stamps and got to go on line to check our mail !!!. Life is good.

Alton,Reed and Nadeane playing monopoly

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Market in Dikil, Chickens, rabbits, hardware,clothes and food

Alison,Malen,Teresa,Emilie,Altan,Mark.( the girls are going home)

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Altan (Turkish)

Peace

Monday June 13th 2011

0800h we depart Eskifoca and head to Yenifoca for a one hour lunch stop from 1200h to 1300h.
We are now headed for Candarli is our overnight stop about 15 miles away
38 55‘.0N 26 47’.6E
01600h when we arrive in Candarli we took the dingy down and we all head into town to check our email. It’s been 3 or 4 days so we needed to catch up with our new. Picked up some more chicken and Altan was able to find some fish cheap. Being able to speak Turkish and knowing what to buy made it easier.
It’s starting to rain a bit. We head back to the boat so Altan can get the fish ready for dinner. Alison got right into taking the heads off and prepping for the frying pan. Now it seems it has become a team effort for Altan and Alison. The both had there own way of doing the fish so Altan did the fish and Alison backed off and did garlic potatoes. Better get out of the galley before the pans start flying.
2000h fish dinner was great ! Nice change from chicken or beef. Watermelon for dessert.
We sat around after dinner and had some drinks. Malin and Emilie are leaving tomorrow so it’s the “last supper”.
2130h Time to get into some reading . I’m almost done my book( Girl with the dragon tattoo) it’s getting better near the end but it does have it’s slow part. Book 2 isn’t here but 3 is so I’ll have to wait till I get home to read others. Hoping I can borrow them from someone !!!
Another early morning tomorrow.
Be well.
FYI very seldom see police here. No army hanging around with guns. I feel very safe here.Crime rate is extremely low(pickpocketers)

Along the coast today

Fish dinner in the cock pit

Swedish girls Malen and Emelie

Eskifoca anchored

Old stone hotel in Eskifoca